The giant bronze Buddha stares impassively, hands in a mudra of peace and harmony. Somewhere out there, beyond a flawless blue sky, enlightenment resides. I have searched for it, or at least tried.
The white crane in the gardens above Kanazawa wanders through the pond, under the bridge, and strolls out the other end. I watch her graceful pose as I take her picture; white feathers glow in the sun. She represents longevity, purity, peace, and good fortune.

Or the brilliant rose-colored muhlenbergia blooming in profusion at the foot of Fuji-san. My son, my traveling companion and tour guide, is visiting Japan for the third time. We are here at the end of the Flower Festival. He and I were supposed to make this trip 22 years ago, but a typhoon canceled my plans.

Here in Japan, just a walk through a garden can ease, although hardly erase, the horror of Hiroshima, where flowers rise on a pathway leading to the Atomic Dome. Bonsai trees glow in golden sunlight near the pond with koi fish, and the graceful wooden temple with a sloping roof, built in the 8th century, stands as a testament to past and present.
Our lives are gone in an instant, but here in the Land of the Rising Sun, the sense of God, perfection, is felt…
Back on the bullet train, a high-speed machine that traverses the country at 120 mph, we head to the next stop in our journey. On the train, everyone is dressed in black, white, and tan, as if in uniforms; the plainer and more nondescript, the better. Almost everyone’s eyes are glued to their cellphone. I check mine, only for the time. It is already 3 p.m., and the sun goes down here by 5:30, and the shops in the geisha district close at the same time.

Red paper lanterns light the narrow streets, evoking old Japan. I read my fortune after shaking a bamboo stick that releases a number, and the assigned numerical drawer holds my fortune. I have an “excellent” fortune, filled with good things, including “Your fame and honor rise all over society”… and “Your request will be granted. The patient will get well soon. The lost article will be found.” I get the part about the patient getting well soon. But “the lost will be found” is strange. This could be anyone, anything, or me.

Not all fortunes are good. Those who got a bad one tie their paper fortunes to a line outside the temple so that the bad luck can be left behind and not follow them home.
Ordering food is done through kiosks, and checking in at our VRBOs is also done through a touch screen. When a person does appear, whether to assist with leading you to a table in the small restaurant, specializing in udon in hot broth with soy sauce and scallions, it is usually a petite woman wearing mostly black or tan who smiles graciously. There is a quiet patience and kindness to this place and its people, especially the women. That counts for a lot when you are 7,000 miles from home.
The older I get, the more I wonder how much, if anything, lies beyond the horizon. I’ve done so much in my life; what else is there?
Still, instead, I will let the moments simmer, savoring the simplicity, the smell of sandalwood incense burning everywhere, permeating the air. At an ancient samurai house swarming with tourists, I see them so preoccupied with taking photos that the garden beneath the terrace and the warm air of an October morning seem lost on them. One has stopped on a dime in front of me on the narrow wooden stairways; I need to catch the railing to keep from falling.

I will ponder the beauty and complexity of an evening walk at nightfall, led by a Buddhist monk who tells us that this past summer he spent two months in Wilmington, Delaware, of all places. He thought it a very cool place. It is a small world, even here on Koyasan’s mountaintop. He leads us through a cemetery, paying homage to Jizo, the guardian of deceased children, miscarried or aborted. We stop at the corporate grave sites, one of which bears the Nissan symbol, the maker of my car. Would I want to be buried next to those I went to work with every day? I think not.

How do I apply these travels to my life? To my writing? I know about loss, about grief, but, for me, depression rarely comes calling. Or am I numb after all the losses that come with aging?
I am open to those different from me while recognizing how many similarities we share, including the ubiquitous cellphone. I learn more about myself, who I am, what I love most; the garden where lanterns glow with orange light at sunset, how to shut out the noise in the midst of a world that at times seems to have gone mad—the protests in France, the corrupt presidents at home and in the Middle East. As the great Zen Buddhist writer, D. T. Suzuki, said: “The privilege of being human is to discriminate between the good from the evil, and just because of this discrimination we can transcend the two and live in a world of innocence … transcendence does not mean dropping off, or leaving behind or ignoring or being indifferent.”

Travel is a landscape of many parts that come together in a whole. Nothing resides in a void, neither our innocence nor our fury at the unjust, which we acknowledge when we open our senses to the world, take stock, and pause like the white crane. My fortune is excellent, after all. And so, I travel and pass through the gates where others have gone before me, seeking quiet, hope, and faith.





































